When to Visit
Even bigger children know the difference between the off and seasonal months: if into the sun and sea, your slot is happening sometime in July and August. The period coincides with the Summer Festival so you are bound to find most action taking place then. June and September are also popular – less crowds but still hot enough. September is the month of the newest Dubrovnik classical event: the Julian Rachlin Festival. Starting next year, May will feature the Shakespeare festival, in English or translated to boot.
However, what children do not know is that they will be old as well and change their habits. The elderly dislike weather that is too hot and may opt for spring or winter indeed, which is mild in Dubrovnik. Equally thrilling are the bouts of dazzling sun, stark showers and the unforgiving bura wind. If into peace and quiet, winter’s your high season in Dubrovnik, especially if you couple it with great spa and wellness amenities.
What to See
This itinerary revolves around an eclectic axis: beside the most popular sights it also includes some stops along the off-the-beaten track routes. It combines action and a sort of Robinsonian moments we all crave for when on holiday. True tourist experience does require some time and effort though – one cannot appreciate stuff if you are in-between departing planes.
If asked to rank the attractions of Dubrovnik, I would probably proceed in the following direction: sun&sea, physical monuments, a sense of history, cuisine. Recommended reading comes in the form of Robin Harris’ Dubrovnik: A History. Not a complicated nor lengthy read, it truly brings to life the stones you set your eyes upon.
What to Eat
Even though you can find international cuisine in Dubrovnik, the acquired tourist taste is to go for something local. If this is your case, the first option is definitely fish and seafood, peppered with olive oil and dark red wine. The prices may be ludicrously high, so check first. Dingač, the local red wine, may be expensive, but at least there is a reason behind this.
What to Avoid
Coming back to food once again, refrain from the Babylon of pizza cuts places, hamburger joints and pasta for 50 kuna. Fast food may be an option if in a hurry and starving but there must be a minimum benchmark for any tourist site. Another issue is the souvenirs. Most of the shops import glaring, kitschy reminders from China and are not worth a visit. If you want to try something authentic, go for the artisans’ street of Dubrovnik – Ulica od puča. This is where you can still find remnants of medieval shop-keepers and find, for example, great jewellery. Perhaps coral. Make sure it’s real.
Day 1: Old Town
A must in any Dubrovnik itinerary is the Rector’s Palace, the once seat of power in Ragusa, the Sveti Vlaho Church (St Blaise, the town patron saint) and the cloister of the Franciscan Monastery and its still-operating pharmacy. City walls are a great experience but beware of strain and sun and heat. Next, take a boat to the nearby island of Lokrum. It boasts some great rocks and a villa of Maximilian Habsburg. It also contains a botanical garden. Spend the evening at Buža (the Hole), named so after a few literal holes-openings were cut in city walls after Napoleon. This is a quaint cafe right by the walls and next to the sea. Mostly a romantic setting, it also features an occasional concert. The service may be substandard, especially taking prices into account, but it’s worth it.
Day 2: Islands
Don’t take one of the 3 islands packaged tours. Act local, head for the Gruž Port and get a ticket to a Jadrolinija boat. There is usually a morning departure and an afternoon return. The busiest island by far is Lopud and there is a reason for this: a superb sand beach. It tends to be crowded though and the addition of music can be a pain for the ears. Koločep (locally called Kalamota) and Šipan may prove to be alternatives in this case. Smaller and quieter. Mljet requires at least two days but has the wonderful option of renting small convertible VWs and exploring the somewhat bigger coast by yourself. Mljet includes a lake national park too. Lastovo, a part of the Republic of Ragusa, can be visited but from Split these days. This is as remote as it gets, in all possible sense, not taking lighthouse accommodation into account. There are even two such venues: Grebeni and Sveti Andrija.
Day 3: Hinterland
To see what life here was about, one must visit the villages and the summerhouses of nobles. By far the prettiest and among the best preserved summer villas is found next to the boat marina in Komolac. The majestic staircase leading to the sea will not be a disappointment. The village of Gromača (northern hinterland, Primorje) and those in Konavle, to the south, have really well developed rural tourism infrastructure. Konavoski dvori, a restaurant, is located next to a cold brook, so the result is a cool-off during your meal. You get to pick the fish from the pond. Next to be mentioned, Trsteno. This is an arboretum – a place where local naval men brought plants to from all over the globe. If motorised, Ston is an option. The border of the Republic, it contains newly reconstructed walls across the mountain. A few steps from there is the peninsula of Pelješac, with some of the greatest wine in the country.
Day 4: Culture
Theatre in your case is not doable on account of linguistic issues. However, concerts can prove to be real treats and opportunities to see some of the greatest local architecture in a different light. You are expected to be somewhat dressed up. By far the greatest event of the Festival is its opening, when the Hymn to Liberty is publicly performed and the ancient flag hoisted. This is a huge event so expect thousands to be there as well. Another sight worth exploring during the day is the Rupe Museum. This is the old town granary, cut in rock. It also contains other exhibits. Perhaps you’d care to take the cable car to Mt Srđ. It offers great vistas and is a joyride. If in a tipsy mood in the evening, the safest option is the East-West Club at Banje beach, with its usual mixture of easy-going foreigners.
Make sure you mail your postcards – forget email and phone for a few days.
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