Hi, Welcome

So I'm trying hard to become a good tourist rep for these three months. It has already taught me a lot: real work, working class conditions and politeness. I even smile more.
I represent three British brands and do Brits only. If you want to study different cultures, just get one plus a Croatian - and watch for three days. I did pick an obscene, juicy local joke about a paedophile - just can't find anyone to tell it to.
I have a pretty good story about the town and tourists like me though I make them say local words or explain "locals are warm and open, though some have hardened due to daily onslaught of tourism."
It's inevitably also a study of human nature. So I did some math, and in about 120 people you will have your 3 loonies. But absolute ones. So you accept you yourself botch some things up, but the former simply cannot be helped.
Then Harry did Hvar. God, if as an interpreter I wished to do a high political summit, this would be your ultimate tourist rep thing. I'd make an extra effort to muddle his royal head.

Julian Rachlin

Well, we have this new festival. That about sums it up - it's new. New broom sweeps well, yes, but these days just about anyone is complaining about new things.
What bothers me with Rachlin is he is inventing hot water, as the vernacular has it. After all we have had the Dubrovnik Summer Festival for some 50-odd years now, so the whole situation resembles the one when marketing "experts" teach philosophy PhDs. Professors do actually learn something but the irony is the other guy never will.
Rachlin does have a somewhat obnoxious feel though he plays well and does serious classical music. I also welcome just about any new event in the town, especially off-season. But tonite was for kids - it's just that adults mostly attended.
The British Queen would say something like: "Well, it's quite postmodern." I say much the same thing in a single word - disgusting.
They dressed the local, poor help as pirates and, acting poorly, performed mediocre musical sketches. Like literally answering the phone hidden in the piano or playing Chopin and Oči černe at the same time. But then something appalling happens - a thundering applause.
I have this music show at the local student radio though I can't actually read music and have often wondered during the past six months whether those people that have neither breath nor sophistication can recognise good music or idea if they mostly perform poorly? It's strange, judging from the world of ideas I would say yes, but from music - they seem to go back.
I'm sure Julian has his side of the issue. He does sell well, y' know. But I'd rather he taught a few not to clap in-between movements.
I guess it's all for the best. But the synchronicity would have it I also heard my young waiter friend say today he's mean to common folk. Bad, bad day.

What's the Word?

Well, there isn't one. The more interesting ideas you get from concepts your language does not cover - actually, in this case, both of my languages.
The first idea comes from the Greek word KAIROS. Kairos is "the art of choosing the opportune moment;" in a nutshell, what to do when, how much to do it etc. Something like the Biblical salt and the skill is to be found in a couple of percentage of the population. Hard to define and hard to master, it mostly goes undetected and unutilised in the ways of the world. It is also acutely lacking, to complete this perfect maze.
The second I found in Bosnia, borrowed from Turkish. SEVAP designates "an act that is dear to God." If we can't be intelligent, it would be good that we are meek, but alas we are not that either. You do sevap when you selflessly help. So if you see a kid's ball on the street, toss it back!

Solstice

Thanks to old friends, I unwittingly celebrated the longest day two days afterwards on a chartered speedboat. If you can imagine a nighttime, roaring drunk, protracted party - well, just paste it over the 12-hour daytime period under scorching sunlight.
The itinerary, whizzed over at 30-odd knot speed, took us over the isle of Mljet, followed by St Andrija, this steep, barren rock that is an outer element in the Elaphiti archipelago, and the posh Villa Ruza, a lounge bar and an exquisite restaurant on Kalamota or Kolocep. Hedonism incarnate.
If you happen to live in an urban center of a kind, the closest I can relate the excursion, with the gulls flying over and the sea washing away the strain, is repeating the words of a friend: "Come on, it's a different dimension.."

I didn't take my camera with me because I reckoned with all the water around, so I'll browse the net to post some now.

Sveti Andrija

Croatia's Journey To European Union

Last Friday, Europe finally said a provisional ‘yes’ to Croatia. The approval marks the beginning of the end of what has been an arduous ten-year journey for the country – that still hangs under uneasy balance between Europe’s monitoring and the referendum.

And the issues have been, and are, manifold. First, there was the question of General Gotovina, a sentenced war criminal that large portions of Croatians consider a hero. Literally on the run from the tribunal, Mr Gotovina was actively aided by members of Croatian Government, which precluded Croatia’s future accession. Today, the issue is still far from resolved. Most of the populace point to double standards of the West: they admit it is possible to commit war crimes in a campaign of liberating one’s country but also argue no victor army prosecutes own generals. The disproportion lacking between the aggressors and those defending themselves is especially galling. One but needs to take a look at pictures of Vukovar and Knin after respective war events.

The second issue comes in the form of non-existent reforms. Locals say the West has own agenda, and is merely sanctioning the reforms that work but on paper. Not much has changed in Croatian judiciary, the statement runs, and corruption looms large. The papers even go that far to suggest this is a rare example of a government investigating itself for corruption. What people are slowly becoming aware is that corruption resides within the ways of the people and that every time one opts to bribe a doctor or get a job for his kid through his contacts with friends – one is essentially committing the same crimes as the ‘big fish’. What is at stake here most are the very principles of the separation of powers in democracy and the possibilities of state officials to act autonomously – if the ruling party uses state consulates in Bosnia and Herzegovina in the election process or the police chief talks and arranges things daily with the same – well, one can but be appalled by these claims.

The third big issue was the border dispute with Slovenia. Slovenia even actively blocked our negotiations. The settlement was indeed achieved, but none in Croatia save the few ruling elect even know what they agreed upon. This is a blow that comes after the people, via their numerous representatives, had to step back and undeclare the ‘sea belt’ that would have been a designated, and protected, space for Croatian fishermen.

Then, there is the question of the referendum. It goes against the common sense that one should negotiate and sign the contract before asking own people about this – but there you have it. Recent polls exhibit about fifty per cent of support and fifty per cent of Euro-scepticism. The campaign for Europe has started on national TV. About the sole argument for Europe in minds of the people is submitting to regulated norms, but the counter-argument points to the economic imbalance between Croatian people and companies and those European.

This particular author is against joining. All of history shows one cannot be friends with a superpower. The idea even runs against the official propaganda that we strove to be free for 14 centuries. Although this is constructing history in retrospect, I’d rather Europeans came to visit, us extending the warmest welcome one can imagine.

Dubrovnik: An Itinerary by a Local

When to Visit

Even bigger children know the difference between the off and seasonal months: if into the sun and sea, your slot is happening sometime in July and August. The period coincides with the Summer Festival so you are bound to find most action taking place then. June and September are also popular – less crowds but still hot enough. September is the month of the newest Dubrovnik classical event: the Julian Rachlin Festival. Starting next year, May will feature the Shakespeare festival, in English or translated to boot.

However, what children do not know is that they will be old as well and change their habits. The elderly dislike weather that is too hot and may opt for spring or winter indeed, which is mild in Dubrovnik. Equally thrilling are the bouts of dazzling sun, stark showers and the unforgiving bura wind. If into peace and quiet, winter’s your high season in Dubrovnik, especially if you couple it with great spa and wellness amenities.

What to See

This itinerary revolves around an eclectic axis: beside the most popular sights it also includes some stops along the off-the-beaten track routes. It combines action and a sort of Robinsonian moments we all crave for when on holiday. True tourist experience does require some time and effort though – one cannot appreciate stuff if you are in-between departing planes.

If asked to rank the attractions of Dubrovnik, I would probably proceed in the following direction: sun&sea, physical monuments, a sense of history, cuisine. Recommended reading comes in the form of Robin Harris’ Dubrovnik: A History. Not a complicated nor lengthy read, it truly brings to life the stones you set your eyes upon.

What to Eat

Even though you can find international cuisine in Dubrovnik, the acquired tourist taste is to go for something local. If this is your case, the first option is definitely fish and seafood, peppered with olive oil and dark red wine. The prices may be ludicrously high, so check first. Dingač, the local red wine, may be expensive, but at least there is a reason behind this.

What to Avoid

Coming back to food once again, refrain from the Babylon of pizza cuts places, hamburger joints and pasta for 50 kuna. Fast food may be an option if in a hurry and starving but there must be a minimum benchmark for any tourist site. Another issue is the souvenirs. Most of the shops import glaring, kitschy reminders from China and are not worth a visit. If you want to try something authentic, go for the artisans’ street of Dubrovnik – Ulica od puča. This is where you can still find remnants of medieval shop-keepers and find, for example, great jewellery. Perhaps coral. Make sure it’s real.

Day 1: Old Town

A must in any Dubrovnik itinerary is the Rector’s Palace, the once seat of power in Ragusa, the Sveti Vlaho Church (St Blaise, the town patron saint) and the cloister of the Franciscan Monastery and its still-operating pharmacy. City walls are a great experience but beware of strain and sun and heat. Next, take a boat to the nearby island of Lokrum. It boasts some great rocks and a villa of Maximilian Habsburg. It also contains a botanical garden. Spend the evening at Buža (the Hole), named so after a few literal holes-openings were cut in city walls after Napoleon. This is a quaint cafe right by the walls and next to the sea. Mostly a romantic setting, it also features an occasional concert. The service may be substandard, especially taking prices into account, but it’s worth it.

Day 2: Islands

Don’t take one of the 3 islands packaged tours. Act local, head for the Gruž Port and get a ticket to a Jadrolinija boat. There is usually a morning departure and an afternoon return. The busiest island by far is Lopud and there is a reason for this: a superb sand beach. It tends to be crowded though and the addition of music can be a pain for the ears. Koločep (locally called Kalamota) and Šipan may prove to be alternatives in this case. Smaller and quieter. Mljet requires at least two days but has the wonderful option of renting small convertible VWs and exploring the somewhat bigger coast by yourself. Mljet includes a lake national park too. Lastovo, a part of the Republic of Ragusa, can be visited but from Split these days. This is as remote as it gets, in all possible sense, not taking lighthouse accommodation into account. There are even two such venues: Grebeni and Sveti Andrija.

Day 3: Hinterland

To see what life here was about, one must visit the villages and the summerhouses of nobles. By far the prettiest and among the best preserved summer villas is found next to the boat marina in Komolac. The majestic staircase leading to the sea will not be a disappointment. The village of Gromača (northern hinterland, Primorje) and those in Konavle, to the south, have really well developed rural tourism infrastructure. Konavoski dvori, a restaurant, is located next to a cold brook, so the result is a cool-off during your meal. You get to pick the fish from the pond. Next to be mentioned, Trsteno. This is an arboretum – a place where local naval men brought plants to from all over the globe. If motorised, Ston is an option. The border of the Republic, it contains newly reconstructed walls across the mountain. A few steps from there is the peninsula of Pelješac, with some of the greatest wine in the country.

Day 4: Culture

Theatre in your case is not doable on account of linguistic issues. However, concerts can prove to be real treats and opportunities to see some of the greatest local architecture in a different light. You are expected to be somewhat dressed up. By far the greatest event of the Festival is its opening, when the Hymn to Liberty is publicly performed and the ancient flag hoisted. This is a huge event so expect thousands to be there as well. Another sight worth exploring during the day is the Rupe Museum. This is the old town granary, cut in rock. It also contains other exhibits. Perhaps you’d care to take the cable car to Mt Srđ. It offers great vistas and is a joyride. If in a tipsy mood in the evening, the safest option is the East-West Club at Banje beach, with its usual mixture of easy-going foreigners.

Make sure you mail your postcards – forget email and phone for a few days.

Unhooked

My addiction to the new medium is too much; and if you have stumbled upon this page - so is yours.
I shall probably add a post or two as I need to "hyper-ventilate" but having squandered the past month is enough.
I am currently busy studying a course called Stanislavski-Brecht-Artaud. 17 titles to go.

Alan Ford: the comic

This is what my teenage years looked like: before I started reading proper, at 18, I spent endless hours perusing the Italian comic. Insightful commentary on society, funny too, it practically raised a generation in Yugoslavia. Moreover, translation matters were not taken lightly: what we call strip was done by the faculty of the Zagreb Faculty of Philosophy Italian Dept.
Here are my favourite examples of great drawing ("It's best to inject myself a little drugs to calm down excitement") and script ("the sweeper who decides to rob poor wretches and give to the rich, who are clean and tidy"):

Ballad of Immoral Earnings

MAC: There was a time, now very far away 
When we set up together, I and she. 
I’d got the brain, and she supplied the breast. 
I saw her right, and she looked after me – 
A way of life then, if not quite the best. 
And when a client came I’d slide out of our bed 
And treat him nice, and go and have a drink instead 
And when he paid up I’d address him: Sir 
Come any night you feel you fancy her. 
That time’s long past, but what would I not give 
To see that whorehouse where we used to live? 
JENNY: That was the time, now very far away 
He was so sweet and bashed me where it hurt. 
And when the cash ran out the feathers really flew 
He’d up and say: I’m going to pawn your skirt. 
A skirt is nicer, but no skirt will do. 
Just like his cheek, he had me fairly stewing 
I’d ask him straight to say what he thought he was doing 
Then he’d lash out and knock me headlong down the stairs. 
I had the bruises off and on for years. 
That time’s long past, but what would I not give 
To see that whorehouse where we used to live? 

BOTH: That was the time, now very far away 
MAC: Not that the bloody times seem to have looked up. 
JENNY: When afternoons were all I had for you. 
MAC: I told you she was generally booked up. 
(The night’s more normal, but daytime will do.) 
JENNY: Once I was pregnant, so the doctor said. 
MAC: So we reversed positions on the bed. 
JENNY: He though his weight would make it premature. 
MAC: But in the end we flushed it down the sewer. 
BOTH: That could not last, but what would I not give 
To see that whorehouse where we used to live? 

Barbara Song

POLLY:
 I once used to think, in my innocent youth 
(And I once was as innocent as you) 
That someone someday might come my way 
And then how should I know what’s best to do? 
And if he’d got money 
And seemed a nice chap 
And his workday shirts were white as snow 
And if he knew how to treat a girl with due respect 
I’d have to tell him: No. 
That’s where you must keep your head screwed on 
And insist on going slow. 
Sure, the moon will shine throughout the night 
Sure, the boat is on the river, tied up tight. 
That’s as far as things can go. 
Oh, you can’t lie back, you must stay cold at heart 
Oh you must not let your feelings show.
Oh, whenever you feel it might start 
Ah, then your only answer’s: No. 


The first one that came was man of Kent 
And all that a man ought to be. 
The second one owned three ships down at Wapping 
And the third was crazy about me, 
And as they’d got money 
And all seemed nice chaps 
And their workday shirts were white as snow 
And as they knew how to treat a girl with due respect 
Each time I told them: No. 
That’s where I still kept my head screwed on 
And I chose to take it slow. 
Sure, the moon could shine throughout the night 
Sure, the boat was on the river, tied up tight 
That’s as far as things could go. 
Oh, you can’t lie back, you must stay cold at heart 
Oh, you must not let your feelings show. 
Oh, whenever you feel it might start 
Ah, then your only answer’s: No.


But then one day, and that day was blue 
Came someone who didn’t ask at all 
And he went and hung his hat on the nail in my little attic 
And what happened I can’t quite recall. 
And as he’d got no money 
And was not a nice chap 
And his Sunday shirts, even, were not like snow 
And as he’d no idea of treating a girl with due respect 
I could not tell him: No. 
That’s the time my head was not screwed on 
And to hell with going slow. 
Oh, the moon was shining clear and bright 
Oh, the boat kept drifting downstream all that night 
That was how it simply had to go. 
Yes, you must lie back, you can’t stay cold at heart 
In the end you have to let your feelings show 
Oh, the moment you know it must start 
Ah, then’s no time for saying: No.

Šaban

"nowhere do i have noone
no country neither next kin
no friend no i don't have none
oh damned is my destiny

i wander the world alone
searching for love every day
i haven't mother no father
nowhere do i have noone
my life is a sad dream plight
i have no darkness no light
i have no peace i have none
oh damned Gypsy destiny"

The Passions

I have gone through a war. I sympathise with all who have suffered. But - celebrations? Indeed I repeat myself, a word for refinement and gravity. We still have a world to construct.

Sloth

Still watching. This time it's the Agora and Holding Trevor.

However, the world is ahead of me. Assange inspired the wet dreams of every conspiracy theory crackpot with his interview to RT ("There's a whole hidden world out there.."), and Obama the comedian performed. I wonder if his daughters still think their old man is a cool fellow.

However, what's truly interesting is the tenacity of the American Dream. With all the inadequacies, it still holds the central attention of human dribble. This must be just about the only thing we can blame on the young. As I once read: all the history lessons, all the squalor - yet they think it'll be different for them.

Movie Week Wrapped Up

Impossible to know every damn thing, I follow my own pace: I remember how I was amazed at seeing a pre-quake documentary on Haiti, that had been but a snippet of a news item in the local press, even with the US intervention (I hope I got some of it right; it's still a blur).
Now, having seen the Endgame, the apratheid mess in South Africa is shed some brighter light on, but the movie has greater aspirations: the final scenes declare the negotiations to be almost a blueprint for salvaging the world from its most bloody conflicts.
I was more interested in all the petty behind-the-scene levereging. According to this, the world is truly, and deeply, paranoid. Which is further evidenced by the German film on German raised terrorism in 1970s aired in my place the night before. Imagine the absurdity - the peace talks inefficacy reverberates through the mass gone violent, which in turn ruins the perfection of peace talks.
And who says the world is out of joint? What's great is that literally all groups and institutions have own villains - one perfect mess. While the small turn rotten as soon as they sense some greatness. Being a serious politician is an underpaid and undervalued profession, I tell you. But they soon go numb as any.
Perhaps the local reader has witnessed all of it during the Dayton conference. If Hollywood ever opts for shooting a tragedy, I can lend advice on the chorus of Croatian idiots. This I know by heart by now.

Lokrum

Well, it's picnic day. Yes, it's getting away from it some.
Should you find me, I recommend a piece of lyrics from Imbruglia's Torn - God, that must have been some ten years back:

You're a little late
I'm already torn


So, no need for text or words today. Let nature (and the love shrills of peacocks) soothe.

Sign of the Times

I've always wanted to translate this poem by Krleza. Unfortunately, his rendering of the plight of poor peasants is in a Croatian dialect I do not fully understand. The bit is, however, telling:


It has never been that bad
That we haven't some luck had
So it will not always be
That through we won't somehow see
..

Quote of the Month

People with courage and character always seem sinister to the rest.
Hermann Hesse (1877 - 1962)

The Serbian Film

Yes, I'm procrastinating - and watching films.
Did you know there's a whole genre called gore? Must say I was initially worried a bit - there's this film festival gone heavily commercial in Dubrovnik, and, a few years back, the arty screenings being half empty, the Hostel attracted a crowd. But it seems ever since the Chainsaw Massacre, there's a steady following, though I do not expect them to shake up the foundations of the civilisation.
I looked for critiques of the Serbian film and found a fitting one. The title is: "Can Baby Sacrifice be a Critique of Society?" Some emotions are generated though, I'll grant that, but a word for refinement here.
However, this is the second film from Serbia to deal with the horrible killings and rape on camera filmed for the enjoyment of supposed wealthy perverts. Makes you wonder whether there's something to that.

Incredible: Bauman, Eagleton, Negri, Spivak and Zizek in Zagreb!

Conference programme:

East-West. Welcome.

The fool thinks Americans have won the war. The perceptive sees they are merely wallowing.
The supreme irony of the Cold War is that neither society was sane. You would get misfits in both, dreaming of paradise across the ocean, only to discover known totalitarianism in USSR and, a bit less known, secret services and supreme ruthlessness in USA.
As any epoch, the time had its share of deluded, sacrificed individuals. But it is always about individuals, even if part of lubricated cog machinery. Step out.